The Rise of the White Sneaker and Its Competition

小白鞋極簡史

圖片來源：上海大學-巴黎國際時裝藝術學院

經(jīng)典的白色運動鞋的普及將近10年了， 它怎么流行起來的呢？無論是阿迪達斯的Stan Smith或者是Converse， 白色運動鞋聯(lián)系起了第一夫人和東海岸的說唱歌手， 就讓我們一起來看看白色運動鞋是如何成為一種現(xiàn)象的吧！

The classic white sneaker has been a staple in men and women’s shoe racks for almost a decade but how did this happen? From Stan Smiths to Converse, the white sneaker the only piece of clothing that can connect the first lady to East Coast rappers and it’s time we explored the phenomenon of the whitest of white sports shoes.

即使你對像GUCCI的懶人鞋（無鞋后跟，裝飾有皮毛）這樣的網(wǎng)紅爆款沒有太多感覺， 你也應該會有一雙白色運動鞋吧。不管你喜歡銳步還是耐克， 對時尚敏感還是遲鈍， 每個人都可以穿，而且一定會穿過白色運動鞋， 這是它的神奇力量。 白色運動鞋的神奇之處在于沒有什么是它不可以搭的， 運動休閑服，街頭風，秀場，運動服，搭起來都毫無違和感，即使油膩大叔穿起來也神采奕奕。一雙小白鞋可以將各種不同身份的人聯(lián)系起來：運動員，接孩子放學的媽媽，X世代（上世紀六、七十年代出生的美國人），第一夫人，還有饒舌歌手。小白鞋超越的不只是季節(jié)，更超越了時尚， 它改變了我們對休閑時尚，對鞋子的潮流，甚至對我們生活方式的看法。為了了解這一切都是怎么發(fā)生的， 我們要從20年前說起…

The It shoe of the year practically breaks the internet (remember the Gucci fur lined backless loafers?!) but even if you’re not all that into shoes, you almost definitely already own a pair of It shoes and they go by the name of the white sneaker. Whether you’re more loyal to Reebok or Nike,

fashion conscious or not, everybody can and does wear a white sneaker and this is all part of the power it carries. You see, the white sneaker has a tongue in every part of the fashion pie, it works for althleisure wear, street style, catwalk and runway, for sports and gymwear and even for geeky, dinosaur dads! The white sneaker unites everyone, from athletics to moms on the school run, to the Gen X girl, first ladies and of course rappers. The white sneaker doesn’t transcend seasons, it actually transcends fashion and has changed the way we see casual fashion, shoe trends and even how we live our lives. In order to explore this, we first have to go back to the 00’s….

圖片來源：上海大學-巴黎國際時裝藝術學院

噢， 本世紀之初，那還是一個泡泡裙，有色眼鏡的時代，還有我們難忘的Juicy Couture（橘滋， 美國加州時尚品牌）的運動服， 另一個在本世界初最流行的就是高跟鞋， 當時的標準是越高越好， 越貴越時髦。 部分因為Carrie Bradshaw（美劇《欲望都市》女主）和這部劇的鐵粉，運動鞋沒有走出過健身房， 那時去健身房才穿運動鞋是天經(jīng)地義的， 出健身房換掉也是理所當然。 Carrie Bradshaw從來沒有穿過一次時尚運動鞋， 更不用說專業(yè)運動鞋， 咱們粉絲也都跟著穿正裝了。她對Manolo Blahnik（西班牙鞋履品牌）的執(zhí)迷也讓我們粉絲心動不已， 成千上萬的妹子剁手也要買一雙天價細高跟。2019的今天， 你很難找到有年輕人愿意花那么多的錢去買一雙不舒服，無法走路的鞋，相反的是她們更在意鞋子是否耐穿， 舒適，以及是否能適應不同的場合的穿著。

Oh, the noughties! An era of bubble skirts, tinted glasses and who could forget the Juicy Couture tracksuits! Another thing that the noughties gave us were heels. The higher the better, the more expensive the price tag the more on trend they were. Thanks in part to Carrie Bradshaw and the cult following of Sex and the City, sneakers simply weren’t the done thing outside of the gym and you certainly wouldn’t be caught dead walking to the gym in your gym gear; changing at the gym was imperative! Carrie Bradshaw’s feet never once touched a fashion sneaker never mind a regular sports sneaker and we all followed suit. Even her obsession with Manolo Blahnik found its way into our hearts, with millions of women selling their right arm in order to pay for extortionately expensive sky scraping stilettos. Now in 2019, you’d be hard pushed to find someone who wasn’t of a certain age, who’s willing to spend that amount of money on uncomfortable shoes they can’t walk in. That doesn’t mean people aren’t prepared to part with their cash in the same way, on the contrary, there’s simply more importance placed on durability of shoes, comfort and the potential to wear them in every social situation.

運動鞋文化從19實際被發(fā)明以來一直是政治正確的， 運動鞋一直和特定的社會階層， 身份和種族聯(lián)系在一起，白帆布運動鞋同時有了政治涵義，有些品牌故意做成了這樣。運動鞋的英文名“sneaker”來自于網(wǎng)球運動， 一開始是網(wǎng)球運動員會穿這種噪音相對較小的鞋子， “sneaker”意思就是“sneak around”（悄聲兒地跑來跑去）?？上У氖?，這個名字讓運動鞋有了社會下層， 流氓， 搶劫犯和毒販才會穿的成見，這層內(nèi)涵一直到最近才有了變化， 運動鞋打破了這些固有的觀念， 成了每個人都可以穿的國民裝備， 無論他的背景如何， 財富多少，來自何處。

Sneaker culture has always been political right from its invention in the 19th century. Sneakers have always denoted class, identity and even race as well as being a blank canvas for political commentary whether the brands behind them intended them to be or not. The name sneaker comes from the original design primarily worn for playing tennis, a relatively noiseless pair of shoes, hence the name sneakers for sneaking around. This idea of sneaking unfortunately gave sneakers the connotation they were worn by the drags of society, delinquents, robbers and even drug dealers. An unshakeable reputation until very recently, finally, the white sneaker has over come all of these pigeon holes, a true shoe for everyone, regardless of their background, wealth or geographical location.

圖片來源：上海大學-巴黎國際時裝藝術學院

2011年， Phoebe Philo（英國著名服裝設計師）在Celine 第四個系列發(fā)布的致謝環(huán)節(jié)穿上了小白鞋，幾秒鐘的露面，她自己也沒意識到已經(jīng)開啟了白色運動鞋和半休閑，精良剪裁的服裝搭配的時尚潮流。 她當時穿的綠色高領毛衣和直筒長褲，以及搭配的阿迪達斯Stan Smith白色運動鞋的影響力已經(jīng)超過了Celine的系列本身，因為Phoebe Philo穿的這一套已經(jīng)完全表達了所有。她向全世界證明了過去被視為運動服裝的小白鞋一樣可以進入高級時裝，不僅實用，而且一樣時髦，性感和不掉價。不必驚訝為什么全世界馬上就接受了這一潮流， 畢竟，誰不想穿舒服一點的鞋子呢？

In 2011, Phoebe Philo took to the runway after her fourth collection at Celine to take her bow. On the runway for mere seconds, she unknowingly set the trend for the white sneaker to be worn with semi casual wear and tailoring. Her outfit of a green turtleneck and straight tailored pants paired with her Adidas Stan Smiths were talked about more than the actual Celine collection – which says everything really! She showed the world how a sports shoe that isn’t overtly categorized as active wear could be brought into high fashion and worn for practically every occasion while still looking smart, sexy and more importantly expensive high fashion. It shouldn’t come as a surprise as to why the world jumped on this trend, after all, who wouldn’t prefer to wear comfortable shoes that everyone can walk well in?

說到小白鞋的競爭者，除了品牌間的競爭，幾乎沒有可以與之匹敵的。Vans的滑板鞋可以算一個， Vans的條紋和方格圖案讓它成為一個亮眼的個性時尚單品。和白色運動鞋不一樣的是，滑板鞋不適合運動，或者說無法對足部起到很好的保護作用，這樣小白鞋扳回了一城。其他的同類競爭者， 當然有很多花哨的運動鞋， 一個簡單的事實是白色運動鞋和精良剪裁的高級時裝的搭配完敗其他的運動鞋。

When it comes to competition, the white sneaker regardless of brand has very little competition. Vans slip on shoes are definitely up there, their striped or checkerboard monochrome patterns making them stand out more as a statement. But unlike the white sneaker, they can’t (or rather shouldn’t for the health of your feet) be worn to exercise in, giving the white sneaker back its edge. Other, more colorful sneakers also hold their place in the fashion sneaker market however the simple fact is that they don’t look as good as white when worn with tailored and high fashion pieces.

圖片來源：上海大學-巴黎國際時裝藝術學院

我們不曉得對小白鞋的喜愛會持續(xù)多久，但是為了不把腳擠進尖尖的高跟鞋， 我希望是一萬年。如果你要買鞋， 那買一雙不會過時的小白鞋是最保險的。 這里我們也附贈一個建議， 一定要一起買一支牙刷，這樣小白鞋才能一直白又白。

We don’t know how long the white sneaker obsession will continue but for the sake of not squeezing our toes into pointy heels, we hope it lasts at least a life time! It’s safe to say that if you’re in the market for purchasing a new pair, they aren’t going to fall out of fashion any time soon but a word of advice –buy yourself an extra toothbrush at the same time so you can keep your pair looking pristine white for as long as possible!

上海大學巴黎國際時裝藝術學院（Shanghai University - MOD'ART International），成立于2003年，被外界譽為”上海時裝界的黃埔軍?！埃菄鴥?nèi)第一個在上海創(chuàng)辦的中法合作時裝設計學院，國內(nèi)率先引進奢侈品營銷與管理專業(yè)。受到中國服裝協(xié)會、中國服裝設計師協(xié)會、中國國際貿(mào)易促進會紡織行業(yè)分會等專業(yè)社會團體的支持。